Solo Dry Tortugas Day Trip: a Guide

Updated 10/19/2024

Does napping on a remote beach, 70 miles from civilization, in front of gorgeous turquoise water sound like paradise to you? That was my experience during my solo Dry Tortugas day trip!

When I visited the Florida Keys, I was lucky enough to get a ferry ticket to Dry Tortugas National Park. I had been checking for days, and it was all booked up, but I kept checking anyway, and lo and behold, a cancellation popped up! On a Sunday at that. So without thinking twice, I grabbed a ticket, and I’m glad I did because it was a peaceful, tranquil experience that melted away my anxiety for a few blissful hours.

But don’t do what I did–if you know you’re going, book in advance! Honestly, this one’s a no-brainer. If you’re going to Key West and you’re craving some beautiful, serene scenery along with your partying, you must visit Dry Tortugas!

What are the Dry Tortugas?

Dry Tortugas National Park is one of the U.S.’s least-visited national parks, but that’s only because it’s not the easiest place to get to (don’t worry, I’ll show you how!) It consists of 7 islands, but 99% of the park is underwater! Most people who visit spend a good chunk of time snorkeling, and you’ll likely want to do the same because you can see a beautiful coral reef and tropical fish!

The main structure there is Fort Jefferson, which you can explore on your own or take a guided tour. I recommend taking the tour because you’ll learn all about its fascinating history, including all about Dr. Mudd, who was imprisoned there because he was convicted of conspiring to kill Lincoln.

WHAT DOES DRY TORTUGAS EVEN MEAN?

It means there’s no water on the island (dry), but there’s plenty of food (turtles. I know…yuck).

how Do you get to dry tortugas from Key West?

Unless you have your own boat, there are only two ways: the ferry and the seaplane–both leave from Key West, Florida. Here are the pros, cons, and details of each:

The ferry: It’s a better value than the seaplane. Plus, you get to cruise on the ocean for 2.5 hours each way, which some people may find relaxing. They serve you breakfast and lunch (bagels and Jersey Mike’s subs), so you don’t have to worry about food. As a bonus, you get a built-in booze cruise on the return trip because they open the bar (and the drinks are reasonably priced–Piña Colada for 6 bucks). You’ll arrive back in Key West around 5:30 or so, which means that you can make it to Mallory Square for a sunset celebration!

Book it here.

Whether you choose the ferry or the seaplane, book your trip quickly. Do it as soon as you find out you’re going to Key West. If you delay, you could get lucky like I did with a cancellation, but don’t count on it. 

Cons of taking the ferry: It’s time-consuming and you may get seasick. The water was pretty smooth the day I went, but you never know. You also have to be at the terminal at 7 in the morning, so you may have to go easy on the Key West partying the night before (I partied all night anyway, but that’s another post!)

The seaplane: If I go back, I’m taking the plane. Not only is it a shorter trip, but the water is so clear you can see turtles and other marine life from the air. You can choose either a half day or a full day trip. I would do the full day even though that is the more expensive option. A half day wouldn’t be enough for me. The seaplane books up even faster than the ferry, though, so again, get tickets as soon as you know you’re going!

Book it here.

Cons of taking the seaplane: cost and difficulty in getting tickets.

What if it’s sold out?

Check online every day for cancellations. When I first started checking, the calendar showed booked for weeks, but on the day I bought my ticket, several days in the upcoming weeks had openings due to cancellations.

can you go camping at Dry Tortugas?

Yes! It would be fabulous to camp here. Camping is allowed, but it does require some planning in advance. You have to get a permit from the park board. They allow only a certain number of campers each day.

Is it good for solo travelers?

Absolutely! It’s easy to keep to yourself, or if you’re having a social moment, talk to your fellow passengers. I didn’t make any friends on this trip, though. I slept the entire way there thanks to the Dramamine I took as a precautionary measure.

One caveat to going solo: it isn’t recommended to go snorkeling alone. I did it anyway. There were enough people around that I felt safe, and there were only two designated snorkeling areas.

can you take pets?

No. LG had to stay with a sitter.

Approaching Fort Jefferson, just look at that water!

Where should I stay?

I spent the night before at Seashell Hostel, which is probably the best value in Key West. They have dormitories and private rooms. There’s free parking (a rarity, and a huge deal in Key West–it’s not cheap there), and I walked to all the bars downtown and the Hemingway house from there. When I returned for the night, I took a book and read in the courtyard hammock. I stayed just one night and drove back to my home base in Islamorada after the Dry Tortugas. If you’re looking for a no-frills, budget-friendly place, look no further. If you want a nicer spot, you’ll want to look into the hotels downtown.

When’s the best time to visit Dry Tortugas?

Definitely the winter. There’s very little shade there, and the sun is harsh. It was pretty toasty in December when I went. I can’t imagine the summer. No matter when you visit, you’ll want to bring a hat and sunscreen.

My Dry Tortugas Day Trip

Getting there
The landing for the ferry was a short drive from the hostel, and it cost me, I believe, 40 bucks to park there for the day. The boat leaves at 7 a.m. sharp. For me, that’s super early, even without a night of partying before. I don’t even wake up that early for work.

I left the hostel around 6:30 and arrived on time. Given my history of motion sickness, I swallowed two Dramamine as soon as I got there. I hauled my giant, pink Temu beach bag with me. It was stuffed with a towel, book, sunscreen, swimsuit, water shoes, water bottle, wide-brim hat, and God knows what else. I was the only passenger with an enormous beach bag. Everyone else had condensed their supplies into neat bags and backpacks, and many people had that “experienced adventurer” look about them. Think Patagonia, cargo shorts, sun hats, backpacks, and big enough water bottles to choke a horse.

Wardrobe
I wore a linen top and ripped denim shorts, which I fully regretted. Easy-to-move-in, breathable clothes work best, but I’ve always gone with fashion over function. I did, however, have the foresight to wear sneakers, which I recommend if you want to walk around Fort Jefferson. Many people had on sandals, which are great for the beach but not ideal for the fort tour.

Ferry ride
We boarded the ferry and were given a breakfast of plain bagels and plain cream cheese. They have juice, coffee, and water down in the galley. I ate my bagel and then…I was out. There was enough room to stretch out across an entire aisle of seating and lie down–a solo traveler’s dream! Judging by the scarcity of the tickets, I was afraid we’d be packed in that boat like sardines, but that was not the case. It was plenty crowded, but there was also enough room to spread out.

So I missed the entire boat ride there. I vaguely remember being awakened from slumber by the guides pointing out things at the beginning and end, but for the most part, you’re on the open water.

And before I knew it, I was in the Dry Tortugas. I didn’t have a Dramamine hangover on land, and I got a great nap on the way there! Win-win!

Lighthouse within Fort Jefferson

When you first arrive, you can set your stuff by the picnic tables. You have to take your belongings off the boat. Then there is a short tour of Fort Jefferson, and after that, you have the option of going on a longer tour. Then you can explore more of the fort on your own or go snorkeling, lie on the beach, walk around, or whatever you want to do.

A few people in the group didn’t stick around for either tour and just went straight for the snorkeling. I told you they were adventurers.

I did both the short and longer fort tours, and I’m glad I did. You get some incredible ocean views from inside the fort, and at one point you go up to the top! It’s very windy up there, which you’ll appreciate with the relentless sun. I went in the winter and was pretty toasty. In the summer, I imagine it’s much, much hotter.

I mean…

Our tour guide was a sweet young lady with a touching story of how she took her first trip to the park in elementary school, felt moved by it, and is now grateful she gets to go there all the time for a living. I could tell she really cared for the Dry Tortugas and that it meant a lot to her to be able to guide us around her favorite place. One of the questions she asked us was why is this place special to you?

And it is special, for a lot of reasons. Its sheer remoteness for one. It’s the least visited U.S. National Park. It feels untouched, pristine. It’s one of the few places I’ve been where human disruption is minimal.

We learned the fascinating history of the Dry Tortugas, including all about Dr. Mudd, who was held prisoner there because he treated John Wilkes Booth for injuries after he shot Lincoln. But they let him out because he cured the entire island of yellow fever.

Had I not already been to similar forts, I would have walked around more on my own–the thing is massive! But I wanted to go snorkeling. After all, the park is 90 percent underwater.

I put on my goggles and flippers, swam out a bit, and…

panicked! There’s just something about it. It’s totally a mental thing. I had snorkeled before, but it still freaked me out. Being in the ocean, even though the water wasn’t that deep and I know how to swim, and I’m supposed to stick my face under and breathe? With fish? Like it’s normal? Also, there’s endangered coral all around me and I’m not supposed to touch it accidentally or I could kill it and then the ocean will die?!

Also, and this is a little embarrassing, I’m kind of afraid of fish. I know, I know. Not sharks, either. Just regular ol’ fish. I don’t want one to touch me. The water is so clear, though, that keeping one’s distance from fish is not difficult. I swam above them, admiring their bright colors. Nothing touched me, and for that, I was super grateful.

I stuck it out for a bit but then decided I needed a break, so I got out and lay on the beach for a few minutes. I knew time was limited, though, so I decided to give snorkeling another go.

I didn’t panic the second time, but I wasn’t brave enough to swim along the entire moat wall either. They have an underwater trail with marked exhibits for those who do. I didn’t see many fish–just tropical yellow and blue ones. The coral was pretty, but of course I was afraid of accidentally touching it, stepping on it, or kicking it with my flippers. I don’t think I stepped on any…

Where the moat walk ends because of hurricane damage

After I’d gotten my fill of swimming, I got out and walked along the moat wall. You can walk most of it but not all because of damage from Hurricane Irma. I could see the coral and fish in the water below me. And after that, I…napped!

I believe that traveling, no matter where, shouldn’t be about trying to cram in as much as you can. Sometimes you just have to sit back and relax. Could I have returned to the fort for a photo shoot when there were fewer people around? Sure. But. I don’t regret my lovely nap in the sun.

Then it was time to go back to Key West. I had a Piña and read from the book I brought along. I sat on the outside top deck for the return trip, so the tourist wide-brim hat was on in full effect.

And it was…nice. The breeze felt good, not chilly. They had oldies playing over the loudspeaker. Some people were singing along. Interesting conversations were happening around me. I find that most travelers, when they gather in groups like this, talk about their other travels. What really piqued my interest, though, was a woman talking about how her daughter in military school was at the top of her class but refused to get vaccinated due to potential allergies, so she may have issues graduating. I had so many questions that I didn’t ask: how had she gotten that far, can’t she get an exception for her allergies, why do strangers always say their kids are at the top of the class?

I enjoyed the famous Florida Keys sunset on the way back. I didn’t go to Mallory Square, though I could have mde it, because I had been the night before and needed to get back to my dog in Islamorada. I was feeling tired, so I stopped at Cuban Coffee Queen before the long ride home for a café con leche, my staple drink while visiting the Keys.

And as I stood there, sipping, it dawned on me that I didn’t see one damn turtle.

Outside Cuban Coffee Queen back at Key West

Final thoughts

This was truly a special experience. I thoroughly enjoyed my time at one of the country’s least visited national parks, and I can’t wait to return?

What do you think? Would you visit the Dry Tortugas? Comment below and let me know!

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